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How are ocean waves formed? Distinguish between a wave of oscillation and a wave of translation. | UPSC geography optional paper 1 2019



How are ocean waves formed? Distinguish between a wave of oscillation and a wave of translation.
(UPSC geography optional paper 1 2019, 15 Marks)

Answer.

When surface water of the ocean rise and fall alternatively, is called a wave.
wave terminology
wave terminology

Wave is formed when rock is thrown in stable water but in oceans,
  • Common ocean wave is formed by pressure from the air that creates friction between water and air.
  • Strong winds like cyclones, hurricanes, tornados create violent waves due to high speed. Stronger the winds the stronger wave.
  • A tidal wave is created by gravitation pull from the moon and sun.
  • Very hazardous waves, a tsunami is formed due to earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions in the ocean.
wave formation

The wave passes energy through water which makes water circular motions.



Wave Terminology:
Crest:
  • The highest part of the wave is called the crest.

Trough:
  • The lowest part of the wave is called the trough.

Wavelength:
  • The horizontal distance between two successive wave crest and wave trough.

Wave height:
  • The vertical distance between trough and crest. The highest wave height is recorded in tsunami waves about 150-meter height.


Ocean wave moves in two directions:

  • Horizontal direction
  • Vertical direction, moving up and down.

Wave oscillation vs Translation:
wave oscillation and translation
wave oscillation and translation



  • Wave oscillation means moving water particles up and down whereas wave of translation means move water particles forward in wave direction.
  • A wave of oscillation occurs in deep water while the wave of translation occurs in surface water.
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Unknown
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19 July 2020 at 19:54 ×

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